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The island of Sant'Erasmo
THE ISLAND OF SANT'ERASMO: CYCLING THROUGH ARTICHOKE FIELDS, VINEYARDS, FORTS AND LAGOON
ph. Comune di Venezia
For Venetians, the start of Spring is heralded by the castraùre, which translated means: the first buds of a local variety of violet artichoke, which are harvested every year between April and May to encourage the growth of new flowers. They are eaten breaded and fried, pan-fried or even raw.
This speciality is only cultivated on the grounds of a few islands in the Venice Lagoon: its place of choice is the island of Sant'Erasmo, which has always been considered the Garden of the Serenissima. The delicious Carciofi violetti di Sant'Erasmo are now recognised as a Slow Food presidium and protected by the Consorzio del Carciofo violetto di Sant'Erasmo.
Four kilometres long, Sant'Erasmo is a true garden-island, a corner of countryside surrounded by water, with vegetable gardens, vineyards and dirt tracks. Traversed by a single road around the entire perimeter, it is also the only island in the Venetian lagoon to be cyclable, and has a small beach, frequented by Venetians in summer.
THE MAXIMILIAN TOWER
The island's main monument is the imposing Fort St. Erasmus, better known as the Maximilian Tower, on the south-western tip. Built by the Austrians between 1843 and 1844, on top of the previous French fort from 1811-14, it has a circular plan, which allowed for observation and shooting at the horizon. Today it is open for events and temporary exhibitions thanks to the efforts of the inhabitants.
Just a stone's throw from the Torre Massimiliana is the 'Bacàn', the small sandy beach of Sant'Erasmo: in summer, dozens of boats anchor in the water space in front, to spend the day there. The island's only restaurant is also located here.
There are two unmissable events hosted each year at the Torre Massimiliana: the first is the Festival of the Violet Artichoke of Sant'Erasmo, which is celebrated in spring, usually on the second Sunday in May. This year, the festival is scheduled for Sunday, 12 May 2024. Every first Sunday in October, on the other hand, the islanders traditionally welcome autumn with the Festa del Mosto.
ph. Comune di Venezia
SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE, SPORTS AND NATURE EXCURSIONS
Throughout the year, the island's numerous farms make it possible to taste and purchase the local wine, as well as all the other local products.
For the last couple of years, then, a group of Venetian restaurateurs and other operators in the sector have joined forces to set up the Osti in Orto project on the island: here they cultivate three and a half hectares with a production of seasonal vegetables, respecting tradition and sustainable agriculture.
The best way to visit Sant'Erasmo is by bicycle, which can be hired locally. The island is criss-crossed by cycle paths suitable for everyone.
Sant'Erasmo also lends itself to sports and nature excursions, by kayak or boat. For the past few years in May, for example, the Carciofo Violetto Trail has been run, a foot race over a 22-kilometre route, immersed in nature among fields and vineyards. At the same time, it is possible to take part in non-competitive walks on shorter routes, to be done by running, walking or Nordic Walking, all starting from the Torre Massimiliana. This year the Violet Artichoke Trail takes place on Sunday, 5 May 2024.
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THE LAGOON'S ANCIENT BOUNDARY LINE
As you walk or cycle along the island's roads, every now and then you catch a glimpse of a stone boundary stone peeking out through the grass: these are still witnesses to the past of the Sant'Erasmo coastline which, before the creation of the breakwaters at the Lido harbour mouth, separated the lagoon from the Adriatic Sea.
These lagoon boundary markers were established by the Serenissima from 1791 onwards to mark the lagoon boundary: there are 16 out of a total of 100 on the island, from marker 29 to 44.
The www.centocippi.it project is dedicated to the lagoon's ancient boundary line, which provides a georeferenced map..
SANT'ERASMO'S FORTIFICATIONS
Another project created to help people rediscover the island is F'Orti, conceived by the Venetian Lazzaretti ecomuseum in collaboration with Venipedia.
F'Orti promotes the exploration, knowledge and public enjoyment of Sant'Erasmo's main architectural witnesses: the fortifications.
Of the various structures once present, the Torre Massimiliana and the three-lobed casemate of the Ridotto Nuovo remain today, while 20th-century telemetric towers stand on the Ridotto Vecchio and the Batteria Sant'Erasmo, and the Testa di Ponte has been restored as a waterfront and public garden.
To this day, the road connecting this waterfront with the various fortification areas is called 'Via dei Forti'.
ph. Comune di Venezia
